Marmalade from bitter oranges is one of the great British kitchen traditions. The fruit appears in shops only for a short spell in the depths of winter, which is why many people plan ahead and clear a quiet day for the job. The result is a jar full of deep colour and a flavour that is sharp, sweet and slightly bitter all at once. It is a fine breakfast companion, and it makes a generous gift.
Choose firm, fresh fruit and wash it thoroughly. Most recipes ask you to cut the peel into shreds, soak or simmer it until soft, and use the juice and the pips as well. The pips are often tied in a small muslin bag, because they help the marmalade to set. Follow a recipe you trust from start to finish, and do not improvise with the sugar or the juice, since the balance decides how the set turns out.
Setting and jars
Once the sugar has been added, the marmalade is boiled until it reaches setting point. Cooks test this by putting a little on a cold saucer and pushing it with a finger; if the surface wrinkles, it is ready. Boiling marmalade is very hot and can spit, so use a large, deep pan, keep children away from the hob and take care when you stir.
Your jars and lids must be clean and undamaged. Wash them well in hot, soapy water, rinse them, and let them dry completely. Check the rims for chips and the lids for rust or dents, and replace anything that is not perfect. Follow your recipe for how the jars should be prepared and filled, and label each one with the contents and the month, so you know what is on the shelf.
Store the jars somewhere cool and dark, and look at them from time to time. Throw away any jar that smells wrong, looks odd, has mould on the surface or has a bulging lid, and do not hesitate if you are unsure. An opened jar belongs in the fridge. A jar tied with string and a handwritten label also makes a lovely gift for a friend who enjoys their toast.
