Chutney is the pantry answer to a glut. When the garden gives more apples, plums or tomatoes than anyone can eat, a slow pan of chutney turns them into something sweet, sharp and spiced. It is a classic partner for cheese, cold meats and a good ploughman's lunch, and it lifts a plain sandwich into something special. The method is simple, but it rewards patience and a recipe you can rely on.
Most chutneys combine chopped fruit and vegetables such as apples, plums, onions or tomatoes with vinegar, sugar and spices. Everything is cooked slowly, stirred often, until the mixture is thick and glossy. Pick fruit and vegetables that are fresh and sound, and cut away anything bruised or spoilt. Follow the recipe exactly, especially for the vinegar and the sugar, which do much of the work of keeping the chutney in good condition.
Jars, lids and patience
Clean jars are essential. Wash them well, rinse them, and let them dry completely, then check for cracks and chips. Because chutney contains vinegar, use lids that are made to cope with it, since bare metal can corrode. Fill the jars as your recipe describes and wipe the rims clean before closing. Label each jar with the contents and the month, so nothing gets forgotten at the back of the cupboard.
Most chutneys taste better if you leave them alone for a while. The sharpness of the vinegar softens and the flavours blend into something rounder. Keep the jars somewhere cool and dark, and check them now and then. If a jar smells odd, has mould, looks different from the others or has a lid that bulges, throw it away. Once opened, keep the jar in the fridge.
Chutney is wonderful with more than cheese. Spoon it into a sandwich, stir a little into a stew, or serve it alongside a curry or a baked potato. Apple and onion chutney goes well with roast meats, while tomato chutney is happy with eggs and cold cuts. A jar wrapped with a bow and a small card is a friendly present at any time of year, and it shows how much care went into it.
